The only way to improve on gougeres_ stuff _em. – the washington post

Soft-Scrambled Stuffed Gougeres With Smoked Trout. (photo by Renee Comet; styling by Bonnie S. Benwick)

Super-sizing in the food world’s generally frowned upon, but we’ll make an exception for the gougeres brunch dish at Garrison. The Barracks Row restaurant offers the savory French choux pastries as pop-in-your-mouth starters, but Rob Weland, along with pastry chef Mariah Jernberg-Briggs, figured out a way to produce almost cupcake-size gougeres, suitable for stuffing.

They deliver a morning repast that’s playful and elegant.

Bonnie S. Benwick has the job most envied among cocktail-party conversations. If they only knew … Cook with her each week at Dinner in Minutes: washingtonpost. com/recipes. View Archive


Soft Scrambled Stuffed Gougeres With Smoked Trout

6 servings


For the gougeres

6 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly grated Grana Padano cheese

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 pinch ground cayenne pepper

2 cups bread flour

6 tablespoons heavy cream

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

For assembly

12 large eggs

1/4 cup crème fraîche

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 ounces smoked trout

2 ounces salmon (roe) caviar

1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped chives


For the gougeres: Preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Use cooking oil spray to grease 12 wells of a standard-size muffin pan.

Crack the eggs plus 1 large egg yolk into a separate bowl. Place the grated cheese in the bowl of a stand mixer.

Combine the water, butter, salt, nutmeg and cayenne pepper in a pot over medium-high heat; bring just to a boil, stirring to make sure the butter’s all melted, then turn off the heat. Add the bread flour all at once; whisk constantly for about 3 minutes, until smooth; turn the heat back on to medium. A thin layer of dough will soon coat the bottom of the pot; this is okay. Transfer the dough to the mixer bowl with cheese; beat on low speed until fully incorporated.

Add the cream, then add the eggs and yolk, one bit at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition, to form a smooth dough. Transfer the dough to a large piping bag (no tip needed); pipe into each muffin well until it’s three-quarters full. Sprinkle each portion with 1/2 teaspoon poppy seeds. Bake (middle rack) for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 400 degrees. Bake for 15 minutes, then rotate the pan from front to back; bake for 10 minutes, or until the gougeres are puffed, well browned and firm on top. Immediately transfer them (out of the pan) to a wire rack. Cut off the tops, then pull out most of the warm centers, which make nice snacking for the cook and kitchen company.

For assembly: Whisk the eggs in a metal or heatproof bowl set over a pot with a few inches of water. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until the eggs are almost set; this will take several minutes and it’s best not to rush it. Stir in the creme fraiche; season lightly with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Remove from the heat.

Arrange 2 hollowed-out gougeres on each plate. Fill with the creme fraiche eggs. Lay a half-ounce piece of smoked trout on each one, then add a small spoonful of salmon roe (using 2 ounces total). Sprinkle 1/4 teaspoon of the chives over each portion, then complete each gougeres with its own top.

Serve warm.


Per serving: 710 calories, 38 g protein, 45 g fat, 22 g saturated fat, 36 g carbohydrates, 729 mg cholesterol, 1g fiber 1 g sugar

Tested by Bonnie S. Benwick; e-mail questions to food@washpost. com

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